Third Friday Wine Group: The Rhone Rangers
I love it when Bill Ridlehuber walks in with that smug grin and says “This one is going to win.” His confidence is not unfounded. We encountered this back in the 2000’s when the theme was “Best Wine Under $30.” (It was March 2005, to be precise).
Same deal—he had that smug grin and we had to instigate the “Bill Ridlehuber Rule” because the Bordeaux he brought in did indeed have a $29.95 price tag on it from when he purchased it at least a decade prior. After the judges convened, we agreed that he should win, because it was a stunner.
And while Bill’s offering did win this last tasting as well, the 2022 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo 'Il Quadro delle Rose’ (say THAT three times fast) from Mount Etna was indeed in a league of its own, and well in the upper end of pricing. Thank you, Bill. But the happy news is that the 2022 Tenuta delle Terre Nere "Bellacolonna" Etna Rosso is available at AOC Selections for $55.00, so let’s hope the familial relationship holds. I am going to check that our later this week.
But one thing I love about Sicily is that you do not have to spend a lot to get a stunning wine. And Gonzalo demonstrated that with the 2025 Nero Oro Appasimento Nero d’ Avola. It hands down wins the “Value Champion” award and little did Gonzalo know but at $12.99/bottle (with their Mix 6 promotion) that was already our house red as well. Not just house Sicilan red, but house red, period.
Chrysa’s Benanti Etna Bianco 2023 (9 votes) was the overall white winner, and a 100% Carricante varietal. Sicily is all about native varietals and they rarely make it elsewhere off the island. Yes, there is some Syrah there, and a smattering of Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon but those are a distant minority. So, to understand Sicily is to know that native varietals and Carricante is the Queen of the Whites.
And while we are on the topic of Carricante, Newcomer Linda Kwok brought a 2019 Benanti Noblesse Brut Traditional-method sparkling, also 100% Carricante from Art of Cellaring. So, notice the commonality with Chrysa’s offering—also a Benantini and also 100% Carricante. Because it was the only sparkling submission, I asked that it not be part of the judging as we all motored through Linda’s offering at the beginning. But, yes, wow. Linda is my cellarmate at Art of Cellaring, so you’ll be seeing her around here.
The August Theme: The Rhône Rangers
Bill chose the theme for the next tasting, and his choice was the Northern Rhône. Except Bill and Mirriam will be traveling and can’t be with us in August. It seems a little unfair to make us drink Bill’s theme without Bill, so we’re going to save the Northern Rhône for September’s theme.
Instead, we’re heading west—to the Rhône Rangers.
The Rhône Rangers are American winemakers who decided that Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir shouldn’t have all the fun. Beginning principally in California, they championed the grapes of France’s Rhône Valley and helped establish varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne as serious American wines.
And this gives us a wonderfully broad field for August.
For reds, look for Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Carignan and Counoise, either as single-varietal wines or blends. For whites, there is Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc, among others. And rosé is absolutely fair game—particularly the Grenache/Mourvèdre/Cinsault styles inspired by the southern Rhône.
California remains the center of the movement, particularly the Central Coast and Paso Robles, but Rhône varieties have spread well beyond California. There are excellent examples from Washington and Oregon—and, yes, Texas.
Including here in 23K. As many of you know, I make wine here at home, and this year I have been working with Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot, Roussanne and Viognier. So I suppose that makes me a Rhône Ranger too, albeit one producing wine in quantities better measured in buckets than barrels.
There is actually an official Rhône Rangers organization, complete with membership. I looked into joining until I discovered that the annual winery membership is $500. At that price, I shall remain an enthusiastic Rhône Ranger sympathizer.
So what should you bring?
Any American wine made substantially from traditional Rhône grape varieties.
That means this tasting is emphatically not limited to Syrah. In fact, part of the fun should be seeing just how differently these grapes express themselves around the United States.
You could bring a powerful Paso Robles GSM blend; an elegant cool-climate Syrah; a Washington Grenache; a Texas Mourvèdre; a lush California Viognier; a Roussanne or Marsanne; or something obscure enough that the rest of us have to look up the grape when you arrive.
And obscure is encouraged.
A Little Rhône Ranger History
The Rhône Ranger movement really took off in California during the 1980s, when a small group of winemakers began looking beyond the Bordeaux and Burgundy varieties that dominated fine California wine.
They saw enormous potential in the grapes of the Rhône Valley, particularly in California’s warmer and drier regions. Producers including Bonny Doon, Tablas Creek, Qupé and others helped demonstrate that these weren’t merely alternatives to Cabernet and Chardonnay. They could produce distinctive, world-class American wines in their own right.
The wonderfully irreverent name “Rhône Rangers” stuck.
Today, Rhône varieties are firmly established in American wine, and some of the country’s most interesting wines are based upon them.
That makes this a particularly good Third Friday theme: there is enough familiarity that finding a bottle shouldn’t require an archaeological expedition, but enough diversity that we should end up with a table full of wines that taste remarkably different from one another.
And perhaps we’ll discover another $13 bottle that matches the $60 ones.
Gonzalo has already demonstrated that it can be done.
Third Friday Wine Group: Etiquette
I'm bringing a friend (or spouse). Do I bring one or two bottles?
Unless you expect to drink very little, or if the single bottle you have brought is quite special, it is generally expected that each person brings a bottle. It is also convention that in the event one bottle is expected to be better, the female companion gets that wine attributed to her. At least, that's what I do to preserve marital harmony.
With that said, with time we are now more cognizant of safety for our participants, so please use your own judgement. Or, think ahead and use Uber.
How should I bring my wine? In a bag? Naked?
When we first started out in 2002 we asked people to bring their wine in plain brown paper bags and write their name out the outside of the bag. Over time, we found that people enjoyed seeing what they were drinking so we switched over to affixing labels with the contributor’s name onto the outside of the bottle. So bring your wine naked.
When bringing a wine that is expected to be chilled, please bring it pre-chilled! We have limited facilities for chilling bottles here, and we have had bottles end up being forgotten in the freezer until late in the evening, by which time they’ve become winesicles. Don't let this happen to your contribution!
Where should I buy my wine?
The objective of the tasting is to try something different, so it pays to go a little further afield to specialist wine shops such as Manny’s Party Pantry Liquors, Monsterville’s Wines, and Houston Wine Merchant. Also, Central Market has surprising depth and breadth of selection, and many of you know Charles the Wine Tasting Guy there.
AOC Selections is a favorite go-to for many of us, and our cellarmaster friend there, Eric Mollina, will help steer you in the right direction.
Is this a contest?
In the friendliest of ways, yes. We hand out little round sticky labels (usually three per guest) which you affix to your favorite bottles-- the People's Choice Awards. You can vote for any wine you wish with any or all of your votes (including your own, though that is not totally “cricket”). We do not expect guests to be wine connoisseurs or experts. There are some experts in the group but they are pretty low-key about it. This is simply about which wine you like the most.
How much should I spend?
My general suggestion is in the $20-$40 range per bottle, unless the theme dictates otherwise. Sometimes that theme is “Best Wine Under $X”. Sometimes the theme requires raising the suggestion somewhat, as with Bordeaux , Champagne, or Amarone tastings. That said, the limit is not absolute. We have had a few crowd-pleasing wines under $15, and if you know of one that is particularly good, then go for it as we would like to learn about it. Likewise, if you are feeling particularly generous, we'll thank you for your contribution if you go over budget. But, it's not about keeping up with the Jones's. Or the Woods. Or the Ridlehubers.
Why do you ask for us to RSVP?
Before each tasting we need to provide security downstairs with a list of people coming into the building. While not absolutely required, this makes it easier for them to check people in and means they don't have to call up to our apartment to allow people in. Also, it is helpful for us to prepare the name labels in advance and judge how many snacks we need to prepare and what assistance we may need from wait staff.
Can I bring friends?
Please do! But let us know in advance by registering them here.
The group is all about people meeting other nice people in a comfortable surrounding. And as the evening progresses everyone gets very talkative. We have had some members in the group since its inception, and we also have new people every month. For us, it is a compliment to have so many people join the group each month. Just please register your guests in advance so we can make necessary arrangements.
Should I bring food?
Please do! While we cannot provide a full meal, we do provide snacks to go along with the wine. Many of our friends also bring dips, fruits, chocolates, cheese, etc. Many people come to the tasting before proceeding out for dinner, or come pre-fed.