Latitude No. 10 - Hudson Valley Kaiseki

​Hudson Valley Kaiseki

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​At New York City's finest omakase counters, solemn servers proudly explain that all of their fish was flown in that very morning from Toyosu Market in Tokyo. The quality of the fish cannot be argued with, but there's something discordant about the practice for a cuisine rooted in the local, seasonal, and specific.

​I think the highest expression of these Japanese culinary ideals is kaiseki, a forerunner to the modern tasting menu. The form is rigid, following a set route to the climax: the trio of humble rice, miso soup, and seasonal pickles. Yet within that, there is much room for creativity. In a country famous for its shokunin, those devoted to the obsessive pursuit of a single craft--ramen, sushi, soba--kaiseki is the generalist's domain.

​New York is a natural fit for both the flavors and ethos of kaiseki. I've found a single farm growing koshihikari rice in the marshes west of the Hudson, and the ginkgo nuts so emblematic of autumn in Japan dropped by trees in Central Park. I've made shoyu from local ramps, and miso from everything bagels.

​I hope you'll join me this fall as I share my love of Japanese cuisine in a way that's true to New York. (Almost!) all of our fish will come from the waters off our very own coastline.

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​Also on Friday, November 6

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​The Details

• ​Ten-course tasting menu with full wine and sake or zero-proof pairing included.

• ​I can accommodate most dietary restrictions with advance notice

• ​Bring someone! Share the link or register for two.

• ​Wear whatever you're comfortable in.